TRIP REPORT: A window in time at the edge of the world

Dr. Rick Knecht (left) and archeology intern Pacen Peppers (right) work to retrieve artifacts from a pre-contact village site near Quinhagak, Alaska

Earlier this week I traveled to the coastal village of Quinhagak to check out the Nunalleq Museum.

Flying on Grant Aviation from Bethel to Quinhagak

I call it a “pop-up museum” because it’s relatively small. But Dr. Rick Knecht, the museum’s actiing director, said the combination lab/display space houses the world’s largest collection of pre-contact Yupik artifacts.

Dr. Rick Knecht shows one selection of masks that were recovered from the dig site near Quinhagak.

All of the artifacts came from a site just a couple of miles away that’s being eroded by waves from the Bering Sea.

Dr. Knecht holds a small ivory carving that is half-owl and half-seal.

“We’re really in a race against time,” said Dr. Knecht. According to carbon-dating of some artifacts, the sod house complex that makes up the dig site was constructed between 1590 and 1630. It was destroyed between 1652 and 1677.

A collection of ulus recovered at the site.

Many of the wooden objects deteriorate quickly after being recovered. There’s an extensive process using a special polyethylene glycol as a preservative. Object soak in the solution from 8-30 days.

A collection of preserved artifacts on display at the museum. Carvings were made from bone, from wood, from stone and from ivory.

This was my first visit to Quinhagak, where there’s broad community support for the project. “It’s a way for elders to connect with young people, since their ancestors were the ones who made these things,” said Knecht.

King salmon were running in the Kanektok River–and locals already were drying their catch.

The exhibits in the museum are fascinating. So are the people who call Quinhagak home today. Sean Gleason, who works with Dr. Knecht on the project, drove me around town to see the docks, the shores of the Kanektok River, the drying fish (the king salmon are running right now) and other parts of the town. “I’m working on the co-creation of data that combines traditional indigenous knowledge with new technology,” he said.

There are a few different ways ot check out the museum and the dig site. Visit the exhibition online HERE. To visit the museum in person, contact Qanirtuuq, Inc., known locally as “Q-Corp.” I worked with Louie Johnson. His phone is (907)556-8290. Or, email him at ljohnson@qanirtuuq.com .

To get there, fly out from Anchorage with Alaska Airlines and spend the night in Bethel. I flew out with a friend from Anchorage, Elizabeth Bluemink. She and her crew were headed to Marshall. We ended up at the same hotel in Bethel. So we carved out a few minutes to walk along the shores of the Kuskokwim River.

From Bethel, make it a day trip to Quinhagak with Grant Aviation. Travel to Quinhagak at 8:15 am, returning at 6:15 pm. There’s also an earlier return flight at 3:10 p.m. Either of those flights would put you in Bethel in time to catch the evening flight back to Anchorage on Alaska Airlines, which leaves at 7:59 pm. Q-Corp does offer overnight accommodations, but it becomes more complicated. For example, you have to bring your own food, since there’s no restaurant.

A long shot of Bethel, from the window of my Alaska Airlines jet.

Honestly, I’m still processing this incredible journey. In the meantime, enjoy the photos.