SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT Katie Pesznecker reports from Las Vegas (aka “Sin City”) on what makes the city one of her favorite destinations.
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Our recent visit to Las Vegas delivered all the key components of a quality Sin City experience – from bougie restaurants to boozy mini golf to bountiful beams of much-needed sunshine.
Photo: Katie and husband Joe in Planet Hollywood.
After a redeye into Harry Reid International Airport, we scored a pickup from our friend Jack and started the day at Urth Caffé in Henderson, a Vegas suburb. Jack previously mentioned Urth as a healthy dining option in Las Vegas, known for roasting its own exclusive organic coffees and designing menus around relationships with local family farms and sustainable ingredients.
Photo: Eggs Verde at Urth Caffé.
I ordered Eggs Verde, two velvety poached eggs over wild arugula, roasted corn, baby tomatoes and poached asparagus, tossed with peppercorn dressing, basil oil, and nutty shavings of Reggiano parmesan. The fresh, bright breakfast was complimented by an iced coffee. Urth has a location in Wynn Las Vegas too (along with Southern California, Saudi Arabia and Dubai…) and is a refreshing option to break up the monotony of Vegas gluttony.
Photo: Las Vegas, we have arrived!
Next stop: the Las Vegas Strip. We cruised past the Welcome to Las Vegas sign, and the towering hotels and casinos shimmering in the desert sun. This iconic entry is often missed when Ubering or taxiing from the airport and we admired the excessiveness and glitz that defines Las Vegas.
Photo: New York New York as seen from the Strip.
Once again, we stayed at our go-to hotel, Planet Hollywood Las Vegas Resort and Casino – a favorite thanks to its easy central-Strip location, vibrant casino floor, adjacency to the Miracle Mile Shops, and top-tier onsite dining options, including Gordon Ramsay Burger Las Vegas and Carmella Italian Restaurant and Lounge (more on that later!).
Photo: Katie and Joe with a glimpse of the casino floor at Planet Hollywood.
That night, double-dating with Jack and his girlfriend Izzy for an evening of food, drinks, and fun, we headed to the Linq and started the night at 99 Prince. This cozy dive bar just off Linq’s casino floor gives gritty urban vibes, designed with tiles and neon for a New York City subway station feel, and bodega-esque décor framing the bar.
Photo: Joe and Jack at 99 Prince.
Trendy but accessible, its website brags it’s the “kind of place where you can kick back whether you’re a cocktail connoisseur, an off-duty bartender, or someone’s very cool mom.” As for the name, 99 Prince? Think Prince song lyrics: “Tonight I’m gonna party like it’s 1999…”
Photo: Hello? Did someone say “Party time?” Katie at 99 Prince.
Upstairs, we arrived for our reservation at Diner Ross, one of Vegas’s most buzzy newer restaurants, earning an Eater 2024 “Best New Restaurant” award. Diner Ross blends kitsch and class, a DJ casting a lively party vibe against the backdrop of throw-back diner décor.
Photo: Jack takes in the comedy at Diner Ross.
The venue proved entertaining. A pair of classically dressed waitresses in half-aprons delivered ongoing tableside comedy. Mid-meal, two men in head-to-toe silver clothing and body paint rocked a robotic dance-off to 1984’s “Jam On It” by Nucleus.
Photo: The bar at Diner Ross.
Soon our table was full of food: complimentary popovers with fluffy chive-topped butter, beet salad atop whipped feta with pistachios and orange vinaigrette, dirty martini bibb lettuce salad with sweetie drop peppers and roquefort and pickled onions, and platters of sizzling prime steaks with classic sides.
Photo: Beet salad at Diner Ross.
Powered by our premier Diner Ross dinner, we soldiered on to our tee time at Swingers, a mini-golf club in Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino. Several nine-hole courses spread across two levels burst with floral décor and twinkling lights, composed of ramps, mouseholes, loop-di-loops and mini Ferris wheels, and all kinds of other crazy obstacles.
Photo: Joe strikes a pose at Swingers
As you golf, the Swingers staff regularly appears to refresh drinks. There is also a bar area and food menu. A six-stroke max per player per round ensures things move along, though we rarely needed that limit – all of us got at least one hole-in-one. We had so much fun round one that we played a second game.
Photo: Swingers selfie!
I began the next morning as I would all my Vegas mornings: at the pool on a comfy daybed, guzzling water flavored with Liquid IV packets and devouring books in the sunshine. Planet Hollywood has two pools and I opted for the 21+ pool, enjoying a quiet, sunny start to the day.
Photo: The pool at PH.
Husband Joe and I walked to In-n-Out Burger in the Linq Promenade for lunch. This is a staple on Vegas vacations because it’s a) cheap, b) delicious, and c) not something we can get in Alaska. The place was packed but the line moved fast and we were soon enjoying burgers in the mid-day sun.
Photo: Burger time.
British restauranteur and reality TV personality Lisa Vanderpump is a trending topic in Las Vegas as of late due to her current remodeling and rebranding of the hotel formerly known as The Cromwell into The Vanderpump Hotel. That wasn’t quite open when we visited; but we did visit Pinky’s by Vanderpump in The Flamingo.
Photo: Inside Pinky’s.
Pinky’s is chic and feminine, with bursting floral arrangements and tumbling arrays of foliage and greenery, gilded mirrors and art deco décor, awash in a sensuous jade green and blush pink color palette.
Photo: A Pumptini at Pinky’s.
A perfect date-night choice, we toasted with champagne cocktails and nibbled off a series of small plates. Our selections included goat cheese balls with strawberry and hot honey, grilled cheese pretzel bites with a tomato bisque dipper, and tiny pigs-in-a-blanket with a stone ground mustard.
Photo: Food at Pinky’s.
We also shared tiny Wagyu sliders on brioche with balsamic caramelized onions, sharp cheddar, Pinky’s Secret Sauce, and shishito peppers, speared with a dill tater tot garnish.
Photo: Joe at Pinky’s.
Our Pinky’s departure timed perfectly with a viewing of the Fountains of Bellagio, a free nightly attraction in the giant 8.5-acre man-made lake in front of Bellagio resort on the Las Vegas Strip. In the evening, a light and water show set to music dazzles regularly, with 1,214 water nozzles, 4,792 lights, and water shooting as high as 460 feet into the air. Pause and appreciate this spectacle at least once on any Vegas visit.
Photo: Bellagio Fountain showing off.
A trip highlight was my rejuvenating visit to Qua Baths and Spa at Caesars Palace. The sprawling facility features tepid and hot pools, a cold plunge, steam rooms and dry saunas, and even an arctic room where it legit snows. A relaxation lounge featured wellness literature, snacks and refreshments.
Photo: Inside Caesars Palace.
Heated wooden loungers in the baths room felt like a full-body massage. Spa use is free with any treatment; the $120 day pass provides three hours of unfettered access. Qua spa areas are same-sex, clothing optional, though notably, nearly everyone was in bathing suits in robes. The place teemed with women of all ages – solo spa-goers like me, on up to large groups.
Photo: Near Qua in Caesars.
That night, we met up with our friends and Vegas residents Ken and Ashley for dinner at Carmella. This is a newer restaurant above the casino floor of Planet Hollywood, and includes an incredible bar, a spacious balcony overlooking the Vegas Strip, and a candy shop-themed speakeasy.
Photo: Our spread at Carmella.
Carmella cuisine is characterized by classic old-world flavors and rustic abundance. Our table shared crusty, cheesy garlic bread with marinara and pesto dippers, beefy meatballs nestled in savory tomato sauce, and a spicy tomato penne with cream, calabrese chili and parmesan. We also ordered filet mignon, the Chilean sea bass, and Ceasar salad. The unhurried and enjoyable feast provided a perfect stage for old friends catching up around the table.
Photo: Group shot with Ken and Ashley.
The next day – our last full day of our vacation – I ventured along the strip to a favorite retail and dining spot, Eataly. Connected to Park MGM and next to New York New York, Eataly is an homage to Italy, a compound of restaurants and food counters and bars beneath a single roof, where you can also buy olive oil or dried pasta or gelato or just about anything else connected to Italian cuisine. I’ve visited locations in New York and Chicago that are similarly delightful and tasty.
Photo: Inside Eataly.
I shimmied up to a bar (one of many to choose from!) for a crisp rosé. At the bartender’s recommendation, I ordered the house special pasta: the tagliatelle ala Bolognese. The dish consisted of thin ribbons of house-made pasta in a slow-simmered beef and pork tomato ragu. It was luscious, savory, with just a hint of sweetness, served with ample fresh-grated parmesan.
Photo: The tagliatelle ala Bolognese at Eataly.
Keeping up with the “me time” theme, I made an appointment at Dry Bar in the Miracle Mile Shops. I do love the Dry Bar experience: the stylist languidly washes and conditions your hair with an impressive parade of foamy, soothing, lovely-smelling hair products, then slowly dries your tresses while you Zen out and immerse in a self-care break from the Vegas craziness. What’s not to love?
Photo: Inside Paris.
Locks all glossy and blown out, it was the grand finale, dinner at Mon Ami Gabi in Paris Las Vegas. This French restaurant delivers dependably excellent service, charming ambiance, and delicious food. We dined on baguettes, steak frites and crisp salads, and for dessert, a fluffy chocolate mousse with a dollop of whipped cream and tiny, crunchy chocolate pearls.
Photo: The dessert at Mon Ami Gabi.
Before our departure the next day, we hit up the slot machines for a final round. Both of us enjoy gambling and are fairly loyal to the Caesars Rewards program. If you’re serious about Vegas, and are going to spend money gambling, its beneficial to declare allegiance to a property chain and rewards program and reap the benefits – like comped rooms, meals, and pool day beds, and occasional offers like concert tickets and free cruises.
Photo: A shot of our massive (comped) room in Planet Hollywood.
With that, another Vegas experience drew to a close, a fun-filled four days packed with new experiences, old favorites, late nights and poolside mornings. The novelty of Vegas is that it isn’t just one thing; as your tastes and preferences evolve, simply seek out the experiences that match your needs and desired itinerary. From clubs to lounges to concerts, fast casual to fine dining, slot machines to table games, and boozy putt-putt to actual golf courses, Vegas really does have something for everyone. I’m already curiously counting down to our next visit to Sin City.
Photo: Striking a farewell selfie as we bid Vegas farewell.
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