TRIP REPORT: On the road in southern Italy

In Alaska Travelgram by scott

Walking along a street in Alberobello, Puglia among the unique “Trulli” houses, which date back to the 15th century. The unique construction of flagstones without mortar was devised in part to avoid feudal taxes on new construction.

It’s a little warm in Italy this month. After all, it’s June. But that hasn’t stopped us from exploring some of the tiny kingdoms in Puglia (pron. POO-lia). 

Come along on a brief photo tour from Rome, to Naples, to Puglia in the “heel” of Italy’s boot.

Alaska Air‘s new Seattle-Rome nonstop made the journey oh-so-easy. In fact, on our food tour in Naples, the other folks on the tour also flew over with Alaska. The dad confessed he used “all his points” so he and his wife could fly in the lie-flat business class seats. Two thumbs up.

“Golden Hour” in the hill town of Locorotondo, in Puglia.

We left Rome after a few days on a quick train ride to Bari, on Italy’s eastern shore. After picking up a car, we drove south to our vacation rental in “Ceglie Messapica”. Please don’t ask me to pronounce it. But it’s a lovely small town with ancient roots. Like most towns in the area, it sits atop a big hill with commanding views all around. There’s a big church, a nearby public square and a car-free pedestrian zone which is filled with restaurants and shops.

Our guide, Sonia, on the “Backstreets of Naples” tour….holds up a classic Neopolitan pizza with marinara sauce. DEE-LISH.

We actually did a day trip from Rome to Naples. We went on a tour, called “The Back Streets of Naples” , by Culinary Backstreets. Our guide, Sonia, offered a wonderful perspective on Neopolitan life–even before the Italian unification in 1862. Naples once was its own kingdom, which included Sicily, Puglia and some of the neighboring areas. Some of the dishes we sampled from street-side shops had ancient roots (like pizza and pasta), but much of it was new, based on necessity in times of poverty, hunger, or both. To go along with the food, we enjoyed several varieties of local wines–which are delicious.

An impressive arch in the hill town of Ostuni…on the uphill walk to the cathedral.

We’re eating our way through the beautiful hill towns of Puglia, including Ostuni, Alberobello and  Locorotondo…among others. 

Another beautiful archway in the town of Ostuni…highlighting the old stones that make up the roadway. Slippery when wet.
Our new best friends from Romania and Argentina join us at the “Vinifera” “enoteca” to sample local Apulian wines.
The “Veiled Christ” sculpture by Giuseppe Sanmartino, is a stunning marble sculpture located in the Sansevero Chapel in Naples.

The art, the statuary and the triumphant architecture of Italy really takes my breath away. Churches and cathedrals throughout the region continue to mark the center of a community. For so long they have been the center of social, political and economic activity. We never miss an opportunity to pause, reflect and pray on our journeys. Usually we light a candle (or two).

Santa Maria della Croce (St. Mary of the Cross) watches over a church named in her honor in Locorotondo.

Stay tuned for more reports. 

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