SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT Maria Benner recently traveled to Lake Clark National Park. In her first report, she detailed a wonderful expedition to Twin Lakes and Dick Proenneke’s wilderness cabin. Here, she shares her experience at Lake Clark Resort, on the shores of Lake Clark.
Most Alaska visitors and even residents never experience Lake Clark National Park. Not because they don’t want to, but because getting there can seem intimidating. After spending six days kayaking and hiking through the wilderness with Alaska Alpine Adventures, I discovered that Lake Clark Resort in Port Alsworth offers a way to experience one of Alaska’s most remote national parks without giving up a comfortable bed, home-cooked meals, or the expertise of local guides.
The adventure begins before you even arrive. From Merrill Field in Anchorage, Lake Clark Air carries visitors over glaciers, braided rivers, and between the rugged mountains of Lake Clark Pass before descending into Port Alsworth about an hour later. Founded by the Alsworth family in 1977, Lake Clark Air remains an integral part of the family’s hospitality operation, connecting visitors to both Lake Clark Resort and the surrounding wilderness.
I expected the resort to simply be a comfortable place to recharge after nearly a week in the backcountry. Instead, I found myself slowing down and appreciating the community that has welcomed visitors here for generations. The cabins strike a perfect balance between comfort and wilderness. Mine was roomy, with a full bathroom, hot shower, a kitchenette and picture windows overlooking floating planes docked on Hardenberg Bay. A spacious porch provided an outdoor space for watching activity on the water. Outside, the landscaping was immaculate. Colorful flowers lined the walkways and surrounded the buildings, making the property feel more like a cherished family homestead than a remote wilderness resort.
Family history runs deep at the resort. Long before Lake Clark became a national park, Babe and Mary Alsworth helped establish the community of Port Alsworth, building their family home with lumber milled from local spruce. Today, their grandchildren and great-grandchildren continue welcoming visitors to the same place, making the resort feel less like a business and more like an extension of their home. During my stay, I met family members flying floatplanes, guiding excursions, greeting guests, and keeping the lodge running behind the scenes. That pride was evident in every detail at the resort.
After settling into my cabin, I wandered the grounds, making a point to visit the chicken coop Dick Proenneke built for Babe Alsworth as a thank you for flying supplies to his remote cabin at Twin Lakes. I was glad to see that it is still in use. Hoop houses and gardens overflowed with vegetables and flowers, carefully maintained by resort staff. The kitchen relies on this garden for many ingredients, and the fresh flowers are cut daily to adorn the dining hall.
I borrowed one of the resort’s canoes for an evening paddle across the glassy water on a sunny day. I even took a quick swim in Lake Clark to complete my unofficial trifecta after dipping in Upper and Lower Twin Lakes earlier in the week. The clear turquoise water looked more like the Caribbean than interior Alaska, but towering, snow-covered peaks reminded me that I was still up north.
Meals became another highlight. Breakfasts were hearty enough to fuel a day of exploring, while dinners featured dishes like pork skewers with cilantro rice one evening and perfectly cooked ribeye the next, finished with homemade desserts including blueberry cheesecake and cranberry cake with white chocolate ice cream. Before each meal, a family member says a brief prayer. This small tradition reflects the family’s values and adds to the welcoming atmosphere. Another detail I appreciated was the resort’s sack lunches. Guests place their order during dinner the night before, then pick up a freshly packed lunch at breakfast before heading out on hikes or guided excursions. The giant and delicious Snickerdoodle cookie was the highlight in my sack lunch.
One thing I noticed over conversations in the dining room was how many guests shared the same goal of visiting all eight of Alaska’s national parks. For many, Lake Clark had long seemed like one of the most difficult to reach. Staying at the resort made it surprisingly approachable.
Whether you want to hike to Tanalian Falls, paddle on the lake, visit the National Park Service visitor center, or join one of the resort’s guided excursions into the surrounding wilderness, Lake Clark Resort makes it possible to experience this remarkable place without needing to be an expert backpacker or wilderness traveler.
As my flight lifted off for Anchorage in the evening, I realized I’d experienced two completely different versions of Lake Clark National Park. One challenged me in the wilderness, while the other reminded me that adventure doesn’t always require roughing it.
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