Trip Report: Cruising through Europe
PHOTO: Day-end drinks with our friends Ashley (left) and Ken (right) aboard the Norwegian Star off the coast of Spain.
My husband Joe and I recently embarked on a nine-night cruise with Norwegian Cruise Line, departing from Southampton, England, and disembarking in Lisbon, Portugal. Along the way, the packed itinerary promised eight stops in five countries with a couple of days at sea. That isn’t quite what happened.
PHOTO: A strings trio played nightly in the ship atrium.
We skipped the first two ports in Belgium (Bruges/Brussels) and The Netherlands (Amsterdam); stormy weather necessitated we hug coastlines and cross the open water strategically to ultimately arrive on time at the first of two French ports. We also bypassed the final Spain port (Vigo) so we could dock earlier in Lisbon without labor strikes impacting pilot boat availability.
PHOTO: Husband Joe heads toward a church in La Caruña.
With cruises, a lot is out of your control. You can’t stay at a port longer than you want. You can’t get off the boat whenever you feel like it. And the schedule might get turned on its head. But cruises also make things super simple, provide easy access to multiple ports, and as with any trip or vacation, the experience is ultimately what you make of it.
PHOTO: The pool deck at night on the Norwegian Star.
While some aboard our vessel, the Norwegian Star, responded to itinerary changes with irritation, indignation or infuriation, we did our best to take it in stride and find the silver linings: we spent time in three amazing countries, disembarking and exploring ports in France, Spain, and Portugal; and really enjoyed our time aboard the Star, making memories at sea.
PHOTO: A striking street view in La Caruña, Spain.
This is our third Norwegian Cruise and I remain impressed by the high quality of the experience. The crew is friendly, available, and helpful. Our balcony cabin once again felt surprisingly spacious, with comfortable bedding and plenty of storage space for clothes and items, so suitcases could be tucked away beneath the bed. (Pro tip: cruise ships’ cabin walls are typically magnetized, so bring magnetic wall hooks to hang items like jackets and daypacks and help maximize space.)
PHOTO: The spacious gym onboard the ship.
The Norwegian Star is about 20 years old and got quite the glow-up during a recent refurbishment. A towering central atrium, sleek gym, stylish bars, elegant restaurants, and a lively casino were among the ship’s many amenities. An outdoor walking and running track meant getting out for fresh air was nearly always an option.
PHOTO: A rare sunny day on one of the top decks.
While many days saw stormy winds, rains, and rollicking seas, the crew opened up the pool deck whenever possible, grilling hot dogs and burgers and playing upbeat music by the (occasionally open) pool. There were plenty of on-board activities to keep us busy. I played in a slots tournament, took a Michael Jackson Thriller dance class, played trivia, went to crafting meet-ups (embroidery FTW!) and enjoyed a wine and chocolate pairing class with my friend Ashley.
PHOTO: A wine class with one of the ship’s six sommeliers.
Make no mistake: this was a late autumn/early winter cruise and incremental weather, plenty of precipitation, and chilly temperatures were a hallmark most days. Seasickness bags were placed around the ship for easy access. I took non-drowsy Dramamine daily, as a precaution.
PHOTO: Husband Joe hanging in the Norwegian Star library.
This did not dampen our spirits. After two full and unexpected days at sea (when we were originally supposed to be in Belgium and the Netherlands), the ship at lasted docked at its first port in La Havre, France.
PHOTO: Timber-framed houses in Rouen, France.
Another lesson learned cruising in this part of Europe: pay close attention to the itinerary. For example, the itinerary said we were docking in Brussels and Bruges; we actually would have docked in Zeebrugge. And the advertised stop in Amsterdam? The official port is Ijmuiden. Do your homework in advance to ensure you aren’t stuck at some industrial port town without a plan or transportation; and know that the advertised port may be an hour or more away.
PHOTO: Inside the cathedral in Rouen, France.
While we docked in Le Havre, the itinerary said Paris. Many people did go to Paris – nearly three hours away. We had zero interest in spending six hours round trip on a bus to spend about three hours in a city we’ve been to before, so we went a different route, and booked transportation to go to the much closer town of Rouen.
PHOTO: The Gros Horloge in Rouen, France.
Rouen’s highlights include its charming medieval center with half-timbered houses, a towering cathedral, and the storybook Gros Horloge (great clock) dating back to the late 1300s. Notably, this is also where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431 in the town’s old market square. After our bus parked, our guide led us to this site. A monument marks the death of the young girl who was later canonized.
PHOTO: Outside the Rouen cathedral in France.
From there, we were on our own. We prefer excursions where we have free time to wander on our own. After meandering up the stunning medieval corridor, we visited the cathedral, sipped cappuccinos at a side street café, and ate a pile of salty, warm French fries.
PHOTO: Fries in France!
I shopped at a French boutique, and picked up chocolates and macarons to take back to the ship.
PHOTO: Scenic architecture in Bordeaux.
After another full day at sea, we docked in Bordeaux, France. We booked transport through Viator, a reputable and dependable tour company, to get transport via a very comfortable motor coach into the city of Bordeaux. We had many hours in this bustling French city that had everything from commercial high streets to quiet narrow lanes of rustic stone buildings, abbeys and courtyards dating back hundreds of years.
PHOTO: This tower in Bordeaux is an original city gate.
Plazas, fountains and monuments punctuated Bordeaux. Narrow lanes connected charming rows of shops. For lunch, we sat at an outward-facing, people-watching sidewalk table and started with a cheese plate – crusty bread, regional camembert, and brie. Our entrees: Croque Monsieur and Croque Madame sandwiches and, of course, French fries. I sipped incredibly affordable wine made from the local Bordeaux grapes.
PHOTO: Cheese please, in France.
The bus ride to and from the city passed charming towns, chateaus, and vineyards both aging and vibrant. We returned to the ship with hunks of leftover cheese to enjoy in our room, and great memories of this very walkable and picturesque city.
PHOTO: The beach in Bilbao.
Next stop: Spain. We docked the next day in Bilbao. The port itself is several miles from the main city (known for hosting the Guggenheim). We had planned to enjoy this as a low-key rest day and hadn’t booked any excursions. Instead, we got off the boat and walked along the esplanade and the sea, checking out local architecture.
PHOTO: Stunning historical mansions front the harbor in Bilbao.
Bilbao had the best weather and warmest temperatures by far, so upon returning to the boat, we took advantage of the rainless skies and basked in the sun on the deck, where kids bobbed in the pool.
PHOTO: Sunny selfie walking along the bay in Bilbao.
The next day, our ship docked in La Caruña, where you can walk right off the boat into town, with immediate access to Roman ruins, narrow medieval lanes, stone arcades, and plazas framed by picturesque buildings and decorated with fountains and statues. We popped into a tavern for this region’s version of tapas, called pixtos; and of course, enjoyed Spanish wine.
PHOTO: Hanging in La Caruña.
A highlight in La Caruña is the Tower of Hercules, the world’s oldest working lighthouse, built by the Romans in the second century AD. We had a killer view of it that night as we pulled away from the port.
PHOTO: The Tower of Hercules as we departed La Caruña.
The entire next day was spent at sea, skipping Vigo to arrive in Portugal that night so we could dock in Lisbon. After a nights’s sleep, we woke up on disembarkation day ready to spend several hours in Lisbon. Joe found a luggage locker facility just blocks away – something prevalent at cruise ports and a great option for stowing stuff if you want to squeeze in the sights at one last stop.
PHOTO: Intricate tiles in Lisbon.
We grabbed an Uber to O Trevo in the Bairro Alto neighborhood, a bustling locals’ café known for its unpretentious pork bifana sandwiches, made famous by Anthony Bourdain. Marinated slabs of juicy, tender pork are served on soft but crusty rolls with mustard and a drizzle of piri piri hot oil. (Tip: if you have limited time or mobility issues and are in Lisbon, take very affordable and plentiful Ubers. This is an extremely hilly city and maps suggesting proximity can be very deceiving.)
PHOTO: Joe preps his pork bifana sandwich.
From O Trevo, it was easy to fill the hours. We hit up the market in the center of town, buying souvenirs and browsing food stalls of sizzling sausages, layered panini sandwiches and other local delicacies.
PHOTO: A tiled plaza in Lisbon.
We nibbled on pastel de nata pastries at a famous bakery, sipped Portugal’s famed Ginjinha cherry liquor, and ducked into the venerable Church of Saint Dominic. Lisbon is known for its stunning tilework, spacious plazas, and harmonious, symmetrical architecture. It was incredible to be back in this vibrant European city, if only for the hours before we had to catch our flight back to London.
PHOTO: Pastel de Natas and cappuccinos in Lisbon.
After three ventures with Norwegian Cruise Line, more friends inevitably ask, “Are you cruisers?” Here’s my answer: We enjoy the experience; and it has drawbacks. The structure is appealing; though we enjoy traveling independently. Ships can feel crowded; and can also offer peaceful vibes. Bonus: there is fun entertainment, open bars, great food, and the timelessness in the floaty leisure of being “at sea.”
PHOTO: Joe buying Ginjinha in Lisbon.
Whether you identify as a cruiser or not, be open to the potential of the cruise experience. Ultimately, a cruise allows access to a big, broad area of the world without complications of transportation and unpacking. Happy sailing.
PHOTO: Night lights on the Norwegian Star.
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