SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT Katie Pesznecker cannot get enough of Jolly Old London. The parks. The markets. The pubs. The Tube. The Thames. Take a stroll with her and her husband Joe as they do some deep-track exploring in the English capital.
PHOTO: Katie outside Kensington Palace in Hyde Park.
We recently enjoyed nearly a week in London, England, first spending several days in advance of a cruise departing out of Southampton; and then returning after the cruise to spend a few more days before returning to the U.S. While I love visiting new countries and cities and checking items off our always-growing travel wish list, we return to London repeatedly and whenever possible. I have visited this vibrant, historical, fascinating city at least a dozen times, and husband Joe has accompanied me on many of those trips.
PHOTO: Husband Joe outside Charing Cross Tube station, an Eleanor Cross commemorated Eleanor of Castile in the background.
Our familiarity with London is at a point where we get around easily, can skip major tourist stops, and focus on locals’ haunts and traditions and lesser-known gems. That’s not to say I’ll never again wander the venerable interior of Westminster Abbey, poke around the foreboding Tower of London, or take a day trip to mystical Stone Henge. I love those spots – and have been many times. And we definitely took a moment to admire some of the high points from afar as we passed by.
PHOTO: Katie outside the Tower of London.
But this trip, we focused on some of our favorite things, in many cases finding ourselves surrounded by far more locals than tourists. Here are some highlights and tips for building a more off-the-beaten-path itinerary if you visit London in the future.
PHOTO: The Sunday Roast spread at Brittania.
Book a pub table for Sunday Roast: Sunday Roast is a British tradition. Any proper pub on a Sunday shifts its menu to feature roast beef, chicken, possibly even duck or other proteins, and some kind of vegetarian option, accompanied by Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and root vegetables, gravy of course, and other potential sides like cheesy cauliflower and various veggies. We booked a table the Sunday we landed at a favorite pub near our hotel in Kensington, The Britannia.
PHOTO: The Britannia in Kensington.
After a long flight from Portland, the roast chicken and accompaniments hit the spot. Sunday Roast is an excessive and caloric experience – there’s a reason Brits indulge only weekly. But pubs across London – from the fanciest Victorian establishments on down to the cheerful boozers – will be ready with homey dinners to satisfy their local patrons.
PHOTO: Inside KERB market in Covent Garden.
Hit the food halls: When it comes to cuisine, London has it all, and the best way to get a little bit of everything and have all kinds of options to choose from are to hit the city’s food halls and markets. Old Spitalfields Market features a range of stalls in its indoor covered area, which has been the site of a market for over 350 years. Among the booths selling scarves, caps, leather bags and other trinkets are loads of food stalls.
PHOTO: Old Spitalfields Market.
Options included melty grilled cheeses, made-to-order pad Thais, wood-fired and plenty of sweets and treats. Ultimately we ordered pork soup dumplings from Dumpling Shack, which specializes in Chinese street food; a Jamaican beef pattie from Caribbean Café, with meat and spices ground together in a flakey pastry crust; and crispy potatoes loaded with spicy toppings and sauces from Hash Hut. The price tag for everything: about $20.
PHOTO: The interior of the Mercato Mayfair.
A trip highlight was checking out the unusual and atmospheric Mercato Mayfair food hall. Located in gorgeous (and deconsecrated) St. Mark’s Church, this is a one-of-a-kind dining experience. The building is Grade-1 listed – meaning, very old and very special. You wander among the perimeter food stalls surrounding by stunning panels of stained glass stretching skyward to the soaring arches.
PHOTO: Inside the Mercato Mayfair.
There’s a wine bar, gelato counter, and coffee stand, with more restaurant stands on the wrap-around second level that overlooks the church floor, and additional food and drink options in the vaulted crypt below. After an afternoon tromping about in pouring rain, I devoured a plate of made-from-scratch carbonara pasta from Dez Amore Pasta, while Joe enjoyed meatless carnitas tacos from Club Mexicana, which specializes in plant-based fare.
PHOTO: Fresh pasta at Mercato Mayfair.
Explore cuisine: When in London, take advantage of the amazing array of cultural cuisine. Try something unfamiliar. One of our most delicious meals was at Hoppers, a Sri Lankan and South Indian restaurant near King’s Cross station, also with locations in Marylebone and Soho. Dining with friends who live north of the city, our table was full of aromatic, spicy small dishes and bites, plus inventive cocktails.
PHOTO: Hanging with our London friends by King’s Cross.
After countless tasty Indian dinners in London over the years, we finally checked out Dishoom, a scene mainstay that prides itself on “Bombay comfort food and first-class drinks.” The Kensington location is just blocks from our hotel and since they don’t take reservations and stays open late, it’s a good option to keep in your back pocket.
PHOTO: The spread at Dishoom.
Travel like the locals: Maybe take a black cab for the one-time experience, and Uber if necessary, but you’re wasting money and experience points if you don’t take advantage of London’s incredible public transit. This includes the Tube subway, the overground trains, and the quintessential double-decker buses. I find the app CityMapper makes it incredibly easy to navigate this affordable and accessible system.
PHOTO: Joe enjoys the view from the Uber Boat.
Spend time on the Thames: One form of Uber I endorse wholeheartedly is the Uber Boat. As with the Tube, you can tap in and pay as you go using your Oyster Card (the card for public transit) or use any major credit card or ApplePay. We hopped on an Uber Boat just outside the Westminster Tube Station. As we pulled away from the pier, we enjoyed views of the shimmering Elizabeth Tower with its famous bell Big Ben, and the majestic buildings of Parliament.
PHOTO: Joe posing outside the Elizabeth Tower and Big Ben.
We traveled to Greenwich, my favorite London neighborhood. Along the way, the speedy, large boat pulled over at various stops, and offered incredible views of the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, the London Eye, the Canary Wharf, and much more. We bought cappuccinos from the café on board and enjoyed the ride. On the boat trip back to central London, I swapped coffee for a glass of white wine while husband Joe enjoyed a crisp cherry cider.
PHOTO: The Pub on the Thames.
Seek out unique pubs: After we disembarked our Uber Boat in the late afternoon at Embankment Pier, we walked a few minutes along the river to Tattershall Castle Pub on the Thames. As the name would suggest, this unique pub is quite literally on the water, housed in a two-level boat that offers various pub spaces within and on deck. We sat out on the deck with a great view of the London Eye and enjoyed a pint and, of course, a big basket of triple-cooked chips, which are basically the most superior form of French fry in the world.
PHOTO: Chips, beer, and the London Eye at a pub on a boat.
There are literally thousands of pubs in London, which can be overwhelming. I prefer those with history and lore, and character and architectural features that call up ghosts of the past. The Lamb and Flag in Covent Garden is a favorite; we toasted champagne flutes there in 2019 when we got engaged in nearby Hyde Park. Several hundred years old, its cozy interior, low doorways, and flickering candles and fireplace throw you backward in time.
PHOTO: Inside the Lamb and Flag.
Go to (lesser known) museums: When in Greenwich, in addition to visiting the venerable Greenwich Market, strolling through Greenwich park, and popping into bakeries, shops and pubs, we also stopped at the National Maritime Museum. Like many London museums, entry is free, though donations are welcome. There is an entry fee for special exhibits.
PHOTO: Joe heads into the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich.
Some of the world’s most famous museums are in London: Tate Modern, the British Museum, the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery, the Natural History Museum and the Victoria and Albert (“V&A”) Museum are extraordinary, can’t-miss institutions packed with treasures, timeless art and artifacts. But there are dozens of other museums with more niche focuses worth a visit.
PHOTO: Husband Joe checking out the National Maritime Museum.
The fascinating National Maritime Museum celebrates Britain’s great history at sea – from exploration to epic battles to trade and industry. A highlight is a permanent exhibit called “Nelson, Navy, Nation,” which details Lord Horatio Nelson’s life and connection to the Battle of Trafalgar. Key artifacts include his bloody breaches and his Trafalgar battle coat, with the musket ball hole from the battle wound that ultimately killed him not long after.
PHOTO: Greenwich Park.
Walk in the park: One of my favorite things to do in London is enjoy its various parks. If its your first trip and you have limited time in this city of endless opportunities and history, it may feel wasteful to carve out time to simply stroll. But it’s a true London pastime, and no matter the weather, you’ll find locals enjoying the city’s plentiful green spaces. Depending on the park, you may see swans, deer, palaces, memorials, and more.
PHOTO: Hyde Park.
Why visit London? We have almost exclusively flown to London from Alaska or the West Coast using Alaskan Airlines miles or Atmos Rewards points, still a great option for maximizing your rewards. Starting in spring 2026, Alaska Airlines will fly daily direct routes from Seattle to London Heathrow. Whether you spend a visit soaking up all the city has to offer, or jumping on a train and heading onward to other towns and villages (or even other countries!), visiting this iconic, busy, fascinating city has never been easier.
PHOTO: Selfie on the Uber Boat with the Tower of London in the background.
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